To pluck pine needles from two- and three-needle pines, getting them ready for wiring. Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black) is the most vigorous of them all, so it will with stand having most of its old needles plucked leaving just a rosette of this year's needle pairs at the tip of each branch and at the top of the tree. On internal branch tips and on lower branches leave more pairs of needles (10-12 pairs) than at the top (maybe 6-8 pairs). Pinus sylvestris (Scots) and Pinus mugho (Swiss) also respond well to this treatment, but leave a few more needle pairs on the tree because these two tend not to be as vigorous as thunbergii. Pinus densiflora (Japanese red) is quite a bit slower and less eager, so apply the plucking technique more cautiously and leave even more needle pairs on this species. Pinus contorta looks really good after needle plucking, but it is but it is still highly resistant to back-budding. Several of us have experimented with the feeding of alfalfa pellets (rabbit food, but with no salts and no antibiotics) and some limited success is being reported.

Now is a good time to talk about winter weather. Most of the bonsai we grow out of doors will stand up to a 'normal' Puget Sound winter with no problem. Usually it is safe just to group the trees on the ground where the rain can keep them watered and then just mulch over the pots to keep the roots from freezing. If a hard freeze threatens, I just drape a black plastic 4mil tarp over the trees and weight the edges down will boards and bricks. As soon as the temperature is above freezing again, I uncover my trees and water them thoroughly. NEVER try to water trees in frozen pots. Very tender trees, such as fuchsia, bougainvillea, and the like can winter over in an unheated garage under fluorescent lights connected to a timer set for 16 hours per day illumination. Watch out for infestations of spider mites and take action to discourage or destroy them as needed.

Trees, which need protection from excessive watering and those planted in very shallow pots, need special care. The soil surface can be partially covered with heavy-duty foil or plastic to prevent heavy rain from drowning the tree, or the pot may be placed under or at the edge of the eave of the roof. Remember to check periodically to make sure they do not become completely dried out. Very shallow pots will drain better if they are propped up with a stone or a board at one end.

It is also a good idea to plan for the repotting season as you are putting away the trees for the winter. I often match trees to pots and put them away together. I also try to leave the maples and larches most accessible because they need to be repotted the earliest. I now repot my azaleas at the first of March instead of waiting for them to bloom. After them the rest of the deciduous trees can be done, and then the conifers. It is a good idea to lay in supplies of wire, soil, sand, red lava rock, and some Alaska fish fertilizer in the fall.

As soon as the leaves have dropped it is OK to start wiring the pines and junipers. Then around the middle of February I like to give a light dose of fish fertilizer to my trees about one week before repotting them. It seems to help them out during the four weeks right after repotting when the brand new roots are too fragile for any plant food.